Night #12: Fairbanks, AK. Captain Bartlett Inn. 4400 miles. Planned on going on an overnight hike deep in the Chena River Valley into the heart of bear country. We had all our provisions prepared. Our packs were heavy and full of promise. However, the mosquitoes were thick, the hike was not very pretty, and the deet was making us kinda sick. It was very hot and humid too. Who would have thought? So we gave up. We weren't having fun. So we hiked back out after just 4 miles or so. Saw a moose and her calf 50 feet from us on our way. Got a room at the Captain Bartlett Inn. Laundry. Shower. Bought a pepporoni/jalapeno pizza and a 6 pack. Watched the Cubs vs Rangers (saw Sammy hit his 600th live) and then three back to back episodes of Law and Order SVU. Felt so good. Most importantly, we got to close the shades.